We started our fourth through seventh days in the Écrins with a detour from the GR54 to get up close to some high peaks. After, we rejoined the GR54 and continued to the village of La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar, up to Refuge des Souffles, and on to the village of Valsenestre.
This post is part of our series about our September & August 2022 Tour of the Ecrins, including:
- Overview and planning
- Arrival in Lyon and transit to Le Monêtier-les-Bains
- Stages 1-3: Le Monêtier-les-Bains, Vallouise, Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette, and Refuge de Vallonpierre
- Stages 4-7: Refuge du Pigeonnier, La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar, Refuge des Souffles, and Valsenestre (this post)
- Stages 8-10: Refuge de la Muzelle, Mizoën, and Les Terrasses
- Stages 11-12: La Grave, Refuge d l’Alpe de Villar d’Arène and back to Le Monêtier-les-Bains, followed by our return through Grenoble and back to Lyon
- Our packing list for hut-to-hut hikes
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Stage 4: Refuge de Vallonpierre to Refuge du Pigeonnier
In the morning, we were happy to see that the previous day’s clouds had descended in to the Vally, giving us clear skies above. After a breakfast of bread, yogurt, coffee, and jams, we set out.
From Refuge de Vallonpierre, we deviated from both the GR54 and the book’s suggested route. This area had looked too beautiful to pass through quickly, and we had planned to spend some more time near the high peaks.
Instead of descending to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar on the GR54, we contoured around to Refuge de Chabourneou. The morning views were stunning. We got off to a slow start, making many stops to enjoy mountains reflected in the lakes near Refuge de Vallonpierre.
Though the route to Refuge de Chabourneou (FFCAM) looked like mostly a balcony walk on our map, it was not. We encountered a few small, steep, rock ascents and descents to work around. Some spots were cable-assisted.
As we neared Refuge de Chabourneou, the trail became more of a classic balcony walk and we could move faster. We also got a fleeting glimpse of a chamois high above us.
Eventually, we reached a sharp descent near Chalet Hotel Refuge du Gioberney to the head of Vallon du Gioberney. While passing above Chalet Hotel Refuge du Gioberney, we noted that it is in a beautiful spot–perhaps a good base for day hikes on a future visit.
What goes down must go back up, and so we soon climbed again, passing a beautiful blue stream and some concerningly large ant hills. The trail brought us still higher. We passed a bivouac shelter and cascades and enjoyed views of nearby peaks and hanging glacier remnants.
Finally, we turned a corner, and Refuge du Pigeonnier was before us, among small tarns and in front of a cirque with several cascades flowing down from Glacier de la Grande Roche.
After getting settled and having a refreshing beer each, we checked out a high point above the refuge. This gave us great views of the surrounding area, including back down to the refuge. We stopped at the tarns along the way and saw frogs.
By dinner, it became clear that we and a camper were the only guests the refuge that night. The refuge keeper cooked an excellent dinner: soup, meat in a nice broth, a good peppery cheese, an apple pound cake-like dessert, and génépi sugar cube. This was the first we encountered génépi, and we quickly became fans.
Distance and elevation gain for the day: 11.9 miles, 4275′.
Stage 5: Refuge du Pigeonnier to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar
After a breakfast of bread, melba toast, and jams, we set out. From Refuge du Pigeonnier, we followed a route posted in the refuge detailing a high traverse. It took some careful wayfinding to cross the many cascades at level spots.
The traverse brought us to Lac Lauzon and Lac Bleu. At each, we enjoyed seeing frogs and took in the views, including spending morning reflections.
After the lakes, we passed another set of cascades and began descending to Chalet Hotel Refuge du Gioberney and Vallon du Gioberney. Blueberries lined this section of trail, prompting frequent snacking.
After Chalet Hotel Refuge du Gioberney, we had an undulating valley walk along the Séveraisse river. The landscape showed many signs of floods over the years. At Le Casset, we passed the oldest remaining bridge in the valley.
As we approached La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar, the sky closed in and it started to drizzle. We reached our hotel, Mont Olan Hotel, moments before it started to pour. From our room, we watched the storm roll through while we did laundry in the sink.
For dinner, we had opted for half board at the hotel. It was simple but tasty: salad and cured meat, a pasta cheese bake with more salad, and fromage blanc and syrup for dessert.
Distance and elevation gain for the day: 11.5 miles, 981′ (& much more descent)
Stage 6: La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar to Refuge des Souffles
The day’s forecast again called for afternoon storms, and so we got an early start. Our route began with a 4.5km walk under cloudy skies through the valley to Villar-Loubière.
There, we began what the book describes as a “relentless climb.” The clouds broke as we began to ascend.
Our early start translated into an earlier arrival. The book’s stage continued, but we planned to stop at Refuge des Souffles. The refuge and its impressive collection of gnomes greeted us.
In addition to the gnomes, another unique feature of Refuge des Souffles was the many teas and infusions on offer. We had a mint tea with caramel and an apricot tart while lounging on chairs outside the refuge. Curious rock fins rose out of the mountainside across the valley: layers of sedimentary rock sandwiched between harder crystalline rock, which has, over time, eroded to create a series of deep, parallel grooves that look as though some giant creature has has raked its claws down the mountainside. This gives the formation its name: Arraches, which evokes the idea of something being torn or scratched away.
Our map also showed some lakes high up above. These tempted us for further explorations, but we were not confident we could reach them and return before the forecast storms. With a big day ahead of us, we decided to relax and enjoy the views from the refuge. Clouds came and went throughout the afternoon.
We enjoyed an excellent dinner: vegetable soup, fish, potatoes, cabbage, four kinds of cheese, ginger and cinnamon cake, and thyme tea. The refuge keepers also offered us génépi sugar cubes.
Distance and elevation gain for the day: 6.6 miles, 3015′.
Stage 7: Refuge des Souffles to Valsenestre
Breakfast also featured gnomes, as well as a croissant, good coffee, breads, cereals, yogurt, and fruit.
Our day began with a fairly quick hike up to Col de la Vaurze. Blueberries fueled our ascent, and we also got closer views of the rock fins.
At the col, we crossed from Hautes-Alpes into Isère. We began the long descent to the village of Désert-en-Valjouffrey. We reached town near lunch and stood outside a café for a while, debating whether we wanted lunch. Eventually we decided that we had eaten enough blueberries and snack bars that we did not need a full meal, but their ice creams tempted us. I had lemon-basil and pistachio and Kyle had lemon-basil and strawberry. This hit the spot: refreshing and a chance to cool our legs down after the descent.
Leaving town, we immediately began climbing again. We saw a Eurasian Jay and an Anguis fragillis (slow worm or legless lizard). Though the trail was never particularly steep, the ascent was long (~3500′) and the day had grown hot. Of all the cols on the trip, I was probably most relieved to each the top of Col de Côte Belle.
From the col, we could see the next day’s climb to Col de la Muzelle. It looked long, steep, and intimidating. That would be a tomorrow problem, though, and we began our descent.
We soon passed through an extremely interesting set of rocks: the Côte Belle organs, also known as the “big library.” The formation is made up of two types of rock layered together: thin sheets of grey-blue limestone (a hard, dense rock) and softer, flakier marl with a schistose texture — meaning it splits and crumbles more easily, so it has worn down more over time. Over the years, vertical cracks developed across these layers, cutting through them at right angles. This cracking pattern broke the rock into a series of tall, pillar-like columns or plates, giving the formation its striking, almost architectural appearance. Many were vertical (like books in a library, hence one of the names), while others were at varied angles.
Eventually our descent brought us to the valley floor. A forested way took us along Valsenestre to Gîte le Béranger. For those daunted by the length of the day, it would have been possible to break up this stage Désert-en-Valjouffrey, and the gîte had also offered, when booking: “You mentioned that you are arriving from Le Refuge des Souffles. Be aware that it is a long walk (8-9hrs with 2 peak). In case you do not feel making it through the second peak (Col de Cote Belle), please phone us at le Désert en Valjouffrey, we can probably come and pick you up.” This is worth noting; we very much enjoyed Col de Côte Belle despite the climb, but it would have been less enjoyable with a stormy afternoon.
Gîte le Béranger surprised us at its size. It had many amenities for people hiking the GR54. Dinner was fine and included soup, pork Provence style, and fromage blanc. All was tasty (especially the pork), but I think the location in a village had led us to expect a bit more.
Distance and elevation gain for the day: 14.9 miles, 5219′.
Read on to Stages 8-10: Refuge de la Muzelle, Mizoën, and Les Terrasses.
